Mr Gonzo: from Columbia to North Melbourne

Mr Gonzo on Melrose St is uncompromisingly Colombian. Spanish chatter drifts across the tables, cumbia plays in the background, and the food is authentic in the truest sense of the word.

For owner Fernanda Mayorga, creating this sense of home was no accident; it was born out of necessity.

“When I first arrived in Australia to study English, I couldn’t find a job. Not even in hospitality or cleaning, because I didn’t speak the language yet,” she said. “So, I turned back to what I knew – I started cooking for friends. I made lechona and tamal, two of the most iconic Colombian dishes. Word spread quickly because people missed this food so much.”

Starting a Colombian restaurant wasn’t just a point of difference in Melbourne’s already extensive dining scene, it helped to fill a void. “At that time, no restaurant in Melbourne was offering lechona. What I never imagined was that the knowledge my parents gave me when I was young would become such a big opportunity here.”

Lechona, a slow-cooked pork and rice dish often eaten at Christmas and family celebrations, has since become the restaurant’s signature. For Colombians in Melbourne, it’s a taste of belonging. And for everyone else, it’s a window into Colombian culture.

Fernanda’s story begins long before she came to Australia. Her parents ran a restaurant in Colombia for nearly 40 years. Hospitality was simply part of daily life. “Whether I wanted it or not, I grew up in it,” she laughed. With Mr Gonzo now going on seven years strong, Fernanda doesn’t just imitate Colombian cuisine – she lives it.

She estimates there are only six to eight purely Colombian restaurants in Melbourne, with many others blending broader Latin cuisines. Mr Gonzo has stayed firmly true to its roots. “Our aim is that when people sit down here, they feel the same warmth as they would at home in Colombia. Colombians come because it’s authentic, and Australians and internationals come because they’re curious to know what Colombia is all about through its food,” Fernanda said.

Colombian cuisine is vast and hard to pin down. “It’s impossible to determine an exact number of traditional dishes, there are literally hundreds. Within just a few hours of travel, you can discover an entirely new culinary world. From the highlands to the coasts, every place has its own flavours, recipes, and traditions.”

She has captured that diversity on the menu. At Mr Gonzo, you’ll find staples like chicharrón (crispy fried pork belly), mazorcada (layered corn, meat, cheese, and sauces), empanadas (fried pastries stuffed with meat or potato), and arepas (cornmeal cakes stuffed with cheese, chicken, or beef). Bigger, slow-cooked dishes include the hearty tamal and the signature lechona, alongside street-food favourites like patacones (twice-fried green plantain slices) and criollo hot-dogs.

Opening a restaurant in a new country is never easy, and Fernanda is honest about the challenges. “Australians are very kind, but of course, not everyone shares the same tastes. That’s natural. Our philosophy is to treat everyone with respect and love, no matter their background. If we can bring people closer to Colombian culture in the process, then we’re doing something right.”

What started as cooking for friends has become one of Melbourne’s most authentic Colombian dining experiences. For Fernanda, it’s about more than food – it’s about culture and community. “We’re not just another restaurant; we’re a cultural experience. And we’re proud to contribute to Melbourne’s incredible food scene by showcasing real Colombian food.”

Fourteen thousand kilometres away from Colombia, Fernanda and her friends have created a home away from home. And all are welcome.

Find it at 118 Melrose St, North Melbourne. Instagram: @mr.gonzo.restaurant, phone: (03) 9329 2145. •