The hidden West Melbourne cafe reimagining Thai food one breakfast at a time

Tucked quietly away on King St in West Melbourne, Roslyn Thai Café has been reshaping local perceptions of Thai cuisine – one pandan chiffon cake and bowl of pork congee at a time.

Now entering its third year of operation, this cosy, 10-seater venue with a welcoming 35-seat rear balcony is the creation of husband-and-wife team Pol and Rin, who live locally and have made Roslyn a true neighbourhood gem. But don’t expect your standard pad Thai or green curry here.

We had to explain to people what Thai breakfast is,” Pol said. “It’s not what most Australians think of when they hear Thai food – it’s congee, pan-fried eggs, roti with curry, or even Chinese donuts with pandan kaya.

Pol, a former executive chef, leads the savoury side, while Rin – who began her career from French cooking school in 2006 and has worked as a pastry chef for some major fine dining venues, including QT Hotels and Long Chim in Perth – brings a refined touch to the sweet. Her cloud-like chiffon cakes in flavours like rose and lychee, mandarin, and Thai tea Basque cheesecake regularly stop passers-by in their tracks. She even bakes her own bread.

Originally from Thailand, the couple moved to Melbourne in 2015, settling in the CBD before relocating to West Melbourne to be closer to their child’s school. During the pandemic, they began cooking meals and desserts for struggling international students – a gesture that cemented their local reputation and ultimately inspired them to open Roslyn.

“We had international students telling us we should open a business,” Pol said. “So, after lockdowns, we found a little place around the corner from our apartment, and here we are.”

Their curated menu celebrates regional Thai breakfasts from Bangkok to Phuket, fused with a love of local produce and café culture. Highlights include the Khao Na Moo Waan – caramelised pork belly with son-in-law egg and chilli lime sauce – and the comforting Jok Moo Sub pork ball congee served with Chinese donuts and an onsen egg.

On the lighter side, there’s the Khai Khon Koong – buttery scrambled eggs, prawns and tobiko over rice – and Rin’s delicate chiffon cakes that pair perfectly with their coconut cold brew or Thai milk tea.

The cafe’s growing popularity has prompted expansion plans. Pol recently secured a second venue nearby, which he plans to open for dinner service later this year.

“There’s a gap in West Melbourne for a casual, refined dinner offering,” he said. “My background includes Japanese cooking, so that’s the direction we’re going.”

In a part of the city often overlooked in favour of more prominent dining destinations, Roslyn Thai Café is a delicious reminder that some of the best culinary experiences are the ones hiding in plain sight.

With a strong online presence and a loyal, multicultural community behind them, Rin and Pol have not only introduced a new genre of Thai cuisine to Melbourne – they’ve built a new model of how a small, heart-led business can thrive.

And with a bigger kitchen now on the horizon, this breakfast gem might just become West Melbourne’s next dinner favourite too.

Visit roslynthaicafe.com.au or find them at 477 King St, West Melbourne. •